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Looking at my reflection, I appear to be wearing oversized golden pantaloons, seen only to me. Kids sit in a rock pool pretending to be ocean creatures, and in the next room resides a talking pea in a display case, alongside a tall stack of bedding. This is the universe of Hans Christian Andersen (1805-1875), among the 19th century’s widely adored storytellers. I’m in this Danish town, situated in Fyn in the south of this Nordic country, to explore the writer's enduring legacy in his home town many decades after his demise, and to experience a couple of magical stories of my own.

The Cultural Center: The Andersen Museum

HC Andersens Hus is the city’s cultural center dedicated to the writer, including his first home. A curator notes that in previous versions of the museum there was minimal emphasis on Andersen’s stories. The writer’s life was studied, but Thumbelina were absent. For tourists who visit this place looking for fairytale wonder, it was somewhat disappointing.

The redevelopment of the city center, redirecting a main thoroughfare, made it possible to rethink how the city’s most famous son could be celebrated. A major architecture competition granted Japanese firm the Kengo Kuma team the contract, with the curators’ new approach at the center of the structure. The distinctive wooden museum with connected spiral spaces opened to significant attention in 2021. “We have attempted to design an environment where we don’t talk about Andersen, but we communicate similarly to the storyteller: with humour, sarcasm and outlook,” says the expert. Even the gardens take this approach: “It’s a garden for strollers and for colossal creatures, it’s designed to give you a sense of smallness,” he notes, a challenge realized by strategic landscaping, playing with elevation, proportion and multiple meandering routes in a unexpectedly limited space.

The Writer's Legacy

Andersen wrote two and a half personal accounts and frequently changed his story. The exhibition takes this approach fully; frequently the perspectives of his companions or excerpts of correspondence are displayed to politely doubt the author’s own version of incidents. “The writer is the storyteller, but he's untrustworthy,” explains the curator. The effect is a compelling rapid journey of his personal story and creations, thinking patterns and most popular tales. It is provocative and fun, for grown-ups and youngsters, with a additional underground make-believe land, Ville Vau, for the children.

Discovering the City

Returning to the real world, the modest urban center of the municipality is delightful, with historic pathways and old wooden houses colored in cheerful shades. The Andersen legacy is everywhere: the traffic lights feature the writer with his signature formal headwear, brass footprints provide a free guided stroll, and there’s a outdoor exhibition too. Each summer this commitment culminates with the yearly Andersen celebration, which marks the author’s legacy through creativity, dance, stage shows and melodies.

This year, the multi-day festival had numerous performances, the majority were without charge. During my time in this place, I meet artistic acrobats, spooky creatures and an writer impersonator narrating adventures. I listen to contemporary performances and see an remarkable evening show featuring graceful performers descending from the municipal structure and dangling from a construction equipment. Still to come this year are presentations, hands-on activities and, broadening the narrative tradition beyond Andersen, the city’s yearly wonder event.

Every excellent magical places require a castle, and the island contains 123 castles and stately homes around the area

Biking Adventures

Like much of the country, bicycles are the best way to travel around in the city and a “bike path” curves through the urban core. Departing from my accommodation, I ride to the complimentary waterside bathing area, then into the countryside for a route around Stige Island, a compact territory connected by causeway to the larger island. Local inhabitants picnic here after work, or appreciate a tranquil moment fishing, water sports or taking a dip.

In the city, I eat at the themed restaurant, where the culinary offerings is derived from Andersen themes and tales. The verse Denmark, My Native Land appears when I visit, and owner Nils Palmqvist reads extracts, translated into English, as he presents each course. Such encounters commonplace in my time in Odense, the island inhabitants enjoy storytelling and it feels as though storytelling is constantly offered here.

Historic Estate Tours

All good fairytale destinations deserve a fortress, and this region features numerous historic homes and estates across the island. Going on excursions from the city, I tour Egeskov Palace, the region's best-preserved moated palace. Although large sections are open to visitors, the castle is also the private residence of the aristocratic owners and his partner, Princess Alexandra zu Sayn-Wittgenstein-Berleburg. I ponder if she might sense a small legume through a stack of {mattresses